he wants a little too much for me, besides i found a 2000 ws6 with a title chassis for 150 bucks thats cheap, perfect start too

and if it works out i will be coming your way to get it blondy the guy is in scottsdale PA dont know if thats anywhere close to ya or not

 

Monika, our cars have a tendency to swist the chasis very easily, especially T-Top cars and mainly the Lt-1 cars because they produce an ungodly amount of torque through the power band. T-top leaks have always been a problem because of this. If your car does not have a strut tower brace, get one, and if you don't have subframe connectors, get a set of them as well. If you take the car into another shop to have them re-do what has been done, ask them if they will put the car on the frame rack to check to see if the body is twisted, if it is it's no biggieas that can be unkinked pretty easily, and when that happens, get you some subframe connectors.

 

Thanks for the info Rick.
Now you got me thinking. I have a leaky T-Top but only because my windshiled was replaced. The leak started directly after that, so I'm hoping it's not frame twist. Would adding SFC's even though you haven't checked the frame and fixed it (if it may be twisted) a bad idea?

 

Cip, it won't really help ex-post-facto because the frame is already twisted, the only thing you will be doing is locking the frame into that position with subframe connectors. Now I don't want to go off on a tangent here and say that all 4th gens that have leaky T-Tops is because of frame twist, there are other factors to consider here, such as t-tops that need to be adjusted, seals that are visibly bad and/or frame twist. LT-1 cars have a higher propensity for frame twist because of the amount of torque on demand at the touch of the pedal which is consistent through the entire RPM band. Bottom line is you should never have to add caulk to the seals as there are adjustments for the t-top themselves and if that fails, $65 dollars will not break you to have the car put on a frame machine to see if the body is twisted from torque.

 

solution is to get a hardtop!!! LOL j/k they all twist usually just dont see it so much unless the car is modded a ton or run hard a lot mainly launches!! but sub connectors will also cure the t-top creak when crossing unevern surfaces like railroad tracks, they should have been on the cars from the factory!! it is quite a difference when you bolt them on and go for the first drive

 

Cool. Thanks Rick.

 

Most definetly!, my car launches like a rocket and goes no where but where I aim it because of the SFC's.

 

Hi Guys, I think I would want to get new tops just to make sure that I don't get scr*wed with someone elses leaky t's. I will save my pennies. As far as the frame twist thing I will look in to it. I didn't take any photos yet to show you, I will do it over the weekend. I think it will be clearer to you to see for yourself what I am talking about. I did, when I bought the car, check the vin to see if it had ever been in an accident, it has not. How much for the sub frame connect and strut tower brace?
The rust spot I am talking about is under the hood not on top. I did not have the entire hood done, just the orange stripes. They did however take it down to the white paint, added the stripes, painted clear coat on top. They did not touch the underside of the hood.

 

Yeah they would not ever do anything on the underside of the hood unless you asked them to. A decent strut tower brace is about $90 buck and the SFC'c range anywhere from $175-$400. I have a set of UMI 3 point sfc's on my car and I love them.

 

Another tell tale sign of the car twisting is the rear quarters will start to show ripples.

 

Forgot about that one, thanks Jim!!

 

yea i forgot abotu the quarters too!!! good call!!

i havent bought connectors yet but i installed a set of slps bolt on ones and they were super easy to install and a very nice fit and finish

 

Hey, Monica. Did you get your paint fixed? If so, how's it look?

 

Hey guys, I didn't forget about you!

Vatchy, I did get the paint fixed by the guy who screwed it up. It looks good except for one part on the spoiler and the CAMARO on the back. He said he couldn't fix the lettering because his guy who does hand lettering wasn't available for another few months!! I haven't gone to the new paint guy yet. I am thinking about stopping by his shop tonight to show him the disaster. He sounded really cool on the phone, I told him what had happened and he was very surprised. He said he could do the hand lettering in the back no problem. I don't have to wait 2 months like I would have had to at the first place.

I also was going to post pics of my rust spot and t-tops. I have not taken them yet! I will do that asap. I will ask him to check the car for a twisting problem. I am also going to ask him to check the whole body for any rust spots I might be missing.

Have a great weekend! Be safe! I am sure that there will be boat loads of cops on the road.

 

Awsome Mionika, looks like things are coming together, just use your best judgement and don't get hosed.

 

Monika, I hope this new guy can take better care of your car, than the last guy. And get us some pics A.S.A.P.

 

Guess who?
Time to resurrect this thread!

Here are some pics I took this morning. The rust spot under the hood is a little larger than I remember it! Yikes! Should I ask the new paint guy to check out my whole car, while he has it, for rust??

Should the hood (on the underside) have orange overspray from the stripes on it?? (see photo #1535) Is this just a continuation of the cr*ppy job the first paint guy did?

Also, here are the pics of the T's. The passenger side is worse than the drivers side. I didn't have time to un-latch and photograph them, I will do that at a later date. I will have the new paint guy check for a frame twist, God for bid!! As you can see the outside of the T is warped. I am sure that is what caused the seal around the glass to be broken. They have not leaked in a long time. Like I said before, I had them re-sealed and only when it downpours sideways do they leak. I will, in the future, get brand new ones.

I haven't gotten to the new paint guy yet. I am hoping next week. I want it fixed before the Camaro Nationals at Carlisle. I entered it in the public judging section! Will keep you posted! Monika

 

Yeah your glass looks ok, but the plastic frame looks to be in bad shape for the t-tops. And as far as the hood goes, I would seriously just consider getting a replacement as it's not worth the cost to repair that one. You have extensive rust in there and the wost pert is, it's on the inside of the sandwich of the metal and the only way to fix that is to have the hood chemically etched in acid, otherwise it will just keep coming back. Now might be a good time opt out for a cowl or SS hood? Concordantly, the people who sprayed the car need a swift kick in the cho, cho! That overspray is horendous!! SLP has the SS hood and the Ultra Z hood on special right now, or you can check out VFN Fiberglass, as they have some killer hoods and the good thing is all of these are fiberglass including the SLP hoods.

 

You're telling me I need a new hood??!! I just had the friggen thing painted!! (as you are well aware of) You can't stop rust at all? What about rust on other body parts? Please explain, I am freaking out!! I can't afford a new hood, I just spent all my money on this friggen paint job. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Take a deep breath Monika. Only a small percentage of the car is metal, so it's not going to be a rust bucket. Do you have rust anywhere else?