So finally finished the 6 speed install in my 67. My car was originally a 4 speed so I had the clutch pedal, however the 4 speed was taken out and a 700r4 put in. The following parts list and instructions are for a hydraulic clutch. If your car is a 4 speed or even a automatic, going with the manual linkage and clutch is a lot less expensive and a lot easier then the hydraulic conversion. You can reuse the clutch and bell housing simply by replacing the LT1 input shaft to a LS1 input shaft. And buying a adapter to go between the bell housing and transmission.

Parts list: Summit part #s
T56 and bell housing out of a 96 LT1 Camaro
MCL-1434002 Firewall kit $274.52
RFW-PG-098 Reverse lockout $7.83
SUM-770326 Crossmember $239.97
ZZZ-HP70043-1 Clutch Kit $476.97
PTP-7-1604-BL transmission. Mount $32.38
DHB-CS360017 Slave cylinder $38

1. Remove all of the existing factory mechanical clutch linkage components.
2. Remove the brake master cylinder and booster assembly. Carefully remove the brake lines from the master cylinder and mark them to be certain they are reinstalled into the correct ports. Brake lines may need to be rerouted if interference occurs. Only use proper steel brake lines when rerouting the brake lines.
3. Disassemble the pedals fro the pedal box. Note order of all parts during disassembly. The pivot rod at the top of the box is secured with a spring clip. Remove the clip and slide the pivot rod out of the box. install the supplied pedal then the brake pedal along with the above mentioned spacers and washers. Reinstall the spring clip. Both pedals should be now securely mounted and travel through their complete arc.
4. Assemble the master cylinder to the mounting plate with supplied screws and lock washers. Tighten screws securely. Install the mounting plate master cylinder assembly pushing the pushrod through the firewall. Re-install the factory brake master cylinder onto the mounting bracket.
5. Assemble the rod end attached to the pushrod to the new pedal.
6. Mount the master cylinder reservoir in a convenient location above the master cylinder. Connect the reservoir to the master cylinder with the red hose.
7. Re-install the brake lines to the brake master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

Once the hydraulic conversion is done remove your transmission, clutch and flywheel, install the flywheel, new clutch and transmission. Note the hydraulic clutch is a pull type not push. Dont make the mistake of installing the clutch without the throwout bearing. It is mounted to the preasure plate on the flywheel side. Install the transmission, crossmember. Fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Mount and bleed slave cylinder. Now depending on what transmission was is in the car you may or may not need to replace the drive shaft. My 700R4 drive shaft turned out to be the right length.

Iam sure I forgot some things so if there are any questions please feel free to ask. I will be driving the car on Thursday and will report how it did.

 

Drove the car today and the transmission works perfect. 5th gear 2500 RPM @ 70 MPH, 6th gear 1700 RPM @ 70 MPH

 

Its great to able to drive down the freeway without the engine screaming at you. I wired in a toggle switch for the reverse lock out. It works great. RFW-PG-098 Reverse lockout $7.83

 

What clutch fork did you use. I bought the mcleod 75216 clutch and fondanza flywheel.