I have 2 up front and 2 in the back, then I have 2 more in the hatch. Now if I buy a aftermarket head unit how would I run 6 speakers when you only have 4 speaker outputs?

 

does ur head unit have 2 preout rca jacks for an amp?along with the 2 fronts,2 rears.....thats 6 outputs right there..

 

well I have not bought a cd player yet but I want to know what I am getting into. So I should get a set of pre amps with the head unit? Then I would have to run an amp right?

Do you know if 6 3/4 inch speakers will fit? crutchfield says they will.

 

yea, a new cd player will have 2 channels for front, 2 for the rear, and 2 rca plugs that can plug into an amp....for the rear...im not sure of the size, im sure crutchfield knows the right sizes..

 

Thank you Vette poweredZ

 

make sure the unit has that settup before you get it, most will...you going to get a box for the back?

 

the two in the hatch, are they subs? if not, then why not just have him run all 4 rear speakers off the rear output?

- Chris

 

No I stole the back spare tire covers out of a monsoon equiped SS car so I would like to use them if possible. I do have a factory sub though.

not into the subwoofers thing so no heavy box will be in the car

 

you can get some good 200 watt 6x9 3ways for the rear, and run an amp to them and thell sound sweet.. no cheapies though..

 

Actually I have a set of 4 way 6*9s but they are in my beater. And 6*9s wont fit in the fourth gen factory holes.

 

all right, no subs, thats cool. so why do you want to run 6 separate channels though is what im trying to figure out. why dont you just wire the 4 rear speakers into two channels. you know, like the mid right and rear right into the rear right off the deck, and same with the left side? i dont see why you need to run RC cables to an amp for 2 more speakers? unless those two speakers are more powerful than the mid rear ones you have? and by mid rear im referring to right behind the doors.

- Chris

 

Well Im just trying to keep my options open and I have spaces for more speakers so why not use them?

 

im not saying dont use them. if i had spaces, i'd fill them too haha. i just dont get why you were told to use the RCA jacks for the rear-most speakers, unless of course those speakers going in the rear-most are different then the stockers behind the driver and front passenger and require more power, then i completely understand.

- Chris

 

First off, don't trust what Crutchfield says on their site. I did and got burned. 6.5" is all I know -for sure- that fits in the doors and the rear seat areas. I don't think 6 3/4" will fit.

I'm also running six speakers (and a sub) and I wired my front four speakers on two channels (front left and front right) and my two rear speakers (4" Infinities) to their own channel (rear left and rear right). Since the Infinities are smaller, this allows me to increase the power to them so they contribute better to the sound. I am running everything through a 5-channel amp (one sub channel running a 10" sub), so, I can control the gain on each channel seperately. Not sure if with just a head-unit you can do that...

 

Okay. 4x6.5" speakers, two in the door, two in the sail panels. The two in the 'spare tire cover' sections are 4" speakers and are pretty much worthless, not even worth hooking back up. IF you want to keep them, you can buy any aftermarket HU and run the preamp outs to the back for a 4 channel amp to run the speakers (6.5's) and run wire from the deck (front speaker wires) to the rear two dinky speakers. Getting a good 4 channel will be better for you speakers volumes as well. What I did was bought an MP3/CDDA/CD player with 2 pairs of outputs, ran the two outputs to the back which plugged into the 4 channel(both pairs in). Next, I bought a stealthbox and a one channel and ran the RCA's from the four channel to the one channel and I love my setup. I had gone the discount route on speakers, 140 for Sony Xplodes.....Now after they sounded like doggy doo, had to switch to the Alpine type R's. HUGE difference in quality. So for 800 or so, you can have an awesome HU, great speakers, a stealthbox and two amps(w/wiring kit from WalMart ). That's what I did, and now my car is really loud and clear, except for the rattles from the 500w.....

 

Nice set up. I'm running a single 5 channel Alpine amp, but, it's basically the same. If you are going through the trouble of installing all new speakers, do yourself a favor and use dynamat on all the speaker mounts. It takes a little extra time and cost a few bucks more, but, I have almost no rattles (don't forget to dynamat the back of your license plate too!).

Once you get it all dialed in a sounding good from inside your car, do like someone else here suggested. Turn up the stereo to "share it with the world volume" or, just to the point where it starts to sound bad frmo inside (basically the limit of your system). Have all the windows and everything closed and do a walk around your car fromthe outside listening for rattles. You could probably hear them from inside too, but, it's easier to isolate them from outside (and they'll bug the heck outta you so, it pays to track 'em down). If you dynamat all your speaker mounts and your license plate, you shouldn't have much more to worry about.

:djsmile:

 

I shook my pass. side tail light loose lol

 

"I shook my pass. side tail light loose lol" haha lovely

so thats what Dynomat does then? i always wondered exactly how it works. i thought it was some sort of insulation and wondered how the heck it even works. but if it nullifies some of the vibrations frequencies, then that makes sense. now i might actually go get some to see how it works.

- Chris

 

Yeah, it basically stiffens up whatever it's applied to. Easy to work with. Comes in rols. You cut the piece to fit, peel off the back and then stick it on. Not sure what it's made of, but, it looks like tar and it molds to whatever it's applied to.

I haven't done it, but, I've heard people also use Rhino lining on the underside of the cars to deaden muffler vibration and kill road noise.

 

Dynamat and other acoustical dampening products don't really "stiffen" the surface applied to, but rather absorb vibration energy. Since sound is avibration energy, they will also act as "sound deadeners" to reduce the outside/road noise coming into the car. This noise is called background or ambient noise. The loudness of the noise (measured in decibles) is called "noise floor."
That's how some companies can advertise using the claim, "doubles amplifier output" or something like that. The earliest Dynamats reduced sound (and vibration) by 3 decibles. In the audio world, it's known that for every 3 db increase in sound, the amplifier output would need to be doubled, and vice versa.
So in effect, reducing the background noise by 3 db makes it half as noisy. The amplifier now has to work half as hard to overcome the noise floor...to get the same level of audio clarity from the system (over the noise floor)...which can theoretically be considered to double the percieved power of the amp.

Newer products, I believe are even more effective at absorbing sound. Dynamat is the industry standard name (like Xerox for making copies), but I do believe there are other better brands out there.