Building a lt1

Discussion in 'Power Adders' started by uh_me, Jul 24, 2017.

  1. uh_me

    Trying to craft a plan for my 94 z28. My goal is 450 rwhp by the end, but that goal is a bit far off. I'll really only be driving it around on the weekends. The car is all stock right now. I have a set of long tube headers, x pipe, and set of mufflers to put on it ready to order, but I'm unsure where to head next. I've researched it a bit, and some people say cai and other basic bolt ons, but a lot also say bolt ons aren't worth the money on the car.

    So I'm trying to make a plan for it. I'd like to only spend about 8k by the end of it, But if more is necessary then oh well. I also plan on doing this a little at a time. So... any ideas?
     
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  2. FANTA-Z Staff Alumni

    All of the little things add up and will help out on your gains when you go to bigger things. First of all to reach that HP you will need to build the motor and stroke it if necessary, you will also have to get your heads ported to flow the most air possible. I had a 95 that I stroked to a 383 and had ported heads with all the extras needed and I put down right at 400 to the wheels. The biggest thing is don't get too hung up on peak number from dyno, you will want to focus on low to mid range power numbers cause thats where you will spend more of your time when playing around with the car :)
     
  3. uh_me

    Yeah. Honestly, the 450 would be for bragging mostly. :p The most fun (to me anyway) is a strong take off and quick acceleration. But, picking cues carefully, I'm hoping to get both.
     
  4. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    As Glenn stated, the small mods add up, especially when you add a cam and port the intake and heads. a CAI and LT Headers are the first two mods that I would do. From there, I would do a cam and port the heads and intake. Just those alone are going to run you probably about $4000 because of the porting and the parts needed to put a good cam in the car. Used parts will bring the price down, but a good port job is going to cost a lot. But it is worth it.

    As Glenn said, for 450 at the wheels, you are probably going to need to stroke it. Just don't forget, when you put a cam in the car, you are going to need a stall and gears If you are auto, or just gears if you are a manual. A good flowing exhaust is also required.

    But again, as Glenn said, don't get hung up on dyno numbers. If you can't get off the line, it doesn't matter how high you can spin that engine or how much power you are putting down at redline. And just doing the CAI, LT's and gears (and stall if you are an auto) will make you think you just put a new engine in that car. Of course, the sound of a good cam will do a lot to your mind making it think you have more power than you actually do lol.

    And Glenn, I thought your 95 had way more power than that? Didn't you get that into the low 10's or high 9's?
     
  5. uh_me

    It's an automatic. What gears would you suggest
     
  6. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    Since you are an auto, go with 3.73's. Also, put in a transmission-Go shift kit and get a new transmission-Go separator plate that goes between the case and valve body, I can assure you, the 3rd gear ball hole is worn on your car if it is factory. If you get it rebuilt at a shop, get a B shell to put it in. That is the #1 part to break. And with that many miles, it the transmission has not been rebuilt, I will bet your 3/4 clutch pack is about gone. Might be worth a rebuild since you are looking at laying down some good power.

    As for the stall, I would say a 3K stall with lockup. Again, this is based on what you are wanting to do with the car down the road.
     
  7. uh_me

    Really appreciate the advice. The transmission hasn't been rebuilt, and I was considering getting it rebuilt after I did exhaust work. The stock manifold is a bit rusted. I'm also needing to hunt down a pesky oil leak before I actually put more power into it.
     
  8. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    I can almost assure you, it's coming from the back of the intake. Or the seals in the front cover. Those are the two most popular places these leak, especially the rear intake seal since the EGR tube runs right there and is quite hot. Not sure where you are located, but if you don't have emissions, I would remove the EGR and tune it out to keep the SES from coming on.

    As for the transmission, that sounds like a great idea. Just make sure you go to a good shop. I rebuild my own transmissions but realize most people can't do this. I was just tired of the shops saying they put something in (B Shell, Kevlar Clutches, New Steels and so on).
     
  9. uh_me

    Yeah, theres some oil at the back of the intake. But at the same time, the whole bottom of my car, from front to back, is drenched in oil, so I'm not sure yet.
     
  10. FANTA-Z Staff Alumni

    Yeah Tony the cars best time was 10.2 @ 133 so just goes to show you dyno numbers aren't everything lol.

    Great info by the way, as always.
     
  11. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    I was thinking you shot that thing into the high 9's at one point. Guess I was thinking of Shepherd. That dude was just crazy fast lol.
     
    FANTA-Z likes this.
  12. FANTA-Z Staff Alumni

    He still is lol.
     
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