Grey Smoke 94 Z28 Convertible

Discussion in '4th Gen Camaro LT1 (1993-1997 Camaro)' started by 30YearOldCar, Feb 2, 2024.

  1. 30YearOldCar

    94 z28 I replaced one of the burned out bulbs in the center brake light hoping that it would resolve the ABS INOP light that's been on for 20 years. Read it in a blog somewhere, but that may have been about a wiring issue. No Go, but the new bulb works. What's that chirping noise, and whats with the grey smoke from the driver side exhaust? LOL. Taking it in for an diagnostic next week. I had a new engine and transmission installed in 2013, and on the next oil change they left the cap loose on the radiator when they were checking things. It overheated, blew the head gasket and warped the cylinders. So supposedly they fixed all that. Maybe not.
    It's a hybrid. It burns gas and oil. Video below. Actually really happy that I am still able to drive it after 30 years.
    https://www.z28.com/media/vid_20240202_175106257.28805/
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2024
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  2. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    Ah, the classic idler pulley squeak (or just belt squeak).

    For the ABS Inop light, that could be a number of things from a bad ABS sensor to the sensor is covered in metal shavings since it's magnetic and hear the brakes to a bad ABS module. If any of the sensors are reporting tripped, it will also show the light. My guess though if the car has not been in a wreck is that it's a sensor somewhere.
     
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  3. 30YearOldCar

    Awesome Thanks. I noticed the chirp went away after driving it for awhile. If I just start it up and turn it off, something on the driver side keeps going for about 3 to 5 seconds, kind of loud and clunky sounding. But if I drive and then turn it off, that doesn't happen. lol Getting some cheapo tires this week. The current ones have flat spots from setting with low air pressure, bald and dry rotted too. Oh, and after driving for awhile, the grey smoke stopped coming out. Must have burned away the oil that was in the cylinders. I'm sure more will be back. lol I'm not too worried about the ABS, or any pollution control codes. Found a shop that can scan with OBD-1, It's a start!

    Thanks Again!
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2024
  4. Tony Staff Member Super Moderator

    The clunky sound could be the A.I.R. system/pump. Unless you have sniff tests during your inspections, you can safely unplug the pump and as long as the fuse and relay are good, it will not toss an SES light. (Edit: at least I think this pump is on the 94's... Let me know)

    The black/gray smoke that goes away could be fouled plugs that need to get warm, could also be fouled O2 sensors that are not reading correctly until they get heated up. With that said though, this car does have an open and closed loop. Open loop is just SD mode where it runs on a set tune. Once it reaches a certain temp, it will kick over into open loop and then the o2's will start reading and adjusting AFR appropriately.
     
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  5. 30YearOldCar

    I'll have them check the plugs and O2 sensors. It had new plugs and wires in 2018 I think, less than 3,ooo miles ago. Driver side sounds like a pump shutting down actually. Not driving it much. Been using my newer Mustang as primary. O2 sensors very possibly. I know it's been years since those were mentioned on this car. I appreciate the insight. Florida no longer has emissions inspections. They tried it years ago, and all the mechanics complained, cost them too much garage time and they couldn't charge enough. Then the state took it over and it lasted for about year before they lost so much on them that they stopped it. At this point in the cars career, if it starts and moves without major breakdown, I am very pleased. I've kept it up as much as a non-mechanic can. Now it's my toy for Sunday drives.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2024
  6. 30YearOldCar

    So the guys who promised the diagnostic had a $40 Innova from Amazon that didn't fit, absent on the list of cars that it works on was the 94 camaro. lol - They sent it back, and didn't charge me for the diagnostic they didn't / couldn't do. Since I bought my scanner and cleared the codes and replaced the MAP sensor, no more grey smoke. Was looking under it to find the drain cock for the coolant and noticed the radiator baffle was installed haphazardly - so I messed around with that and got it fit in there the right way. The way it was hanging, some of the air scoop would have flowed into the engine bay, and it was kind of blocking the radiator. Going to do a drain and fill on the radiator and the block. The coolant looks really clean, if its dirty on the drain, I will flush. Will install the 160F thermostat when I do that. Also ordered a manual fan switch. Heater core and water pump was all replaced in 2015 or 5k miles ago, but the coolant is old. I think with the fans running, the hot run issues will be resolved. A/C is down, till I get it recharged, but I like the remote fan switch idea a lot. They were running and cooling things down before I removed the codes, and heat was not an issue. I had a hole in my reserve coolant line as well. Replaced that and the rad cap. Last run it was bubbling into the overflow and gurgling at the rad neck, so probably have some air in the system from swapping out the overflow hose.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2024
  7. 4thand26

    Im not recommending this because its tampering with emissions equipment, but if you turn the pump off or remove it, you will pass the sniffer test just fine
     
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  8. 30YearOldCar

    Thanks Tony. No sniffers here in Florida. As far as I know everything is plugged in and most are operational. A/C is down. Gonna explore a vac and recharge with a paperclip jump to start the compressor. No Codes anymore, I fixed it. Bad MAP sensor. Things got a lot better after that, except the fans dont come on without the codes being active, so now running hotter. Manual fan switch ordered s/b here Friday. Not really sure how to read the O2 sensor live data on my Actron CP9690, will have to research. I bet it's time for a cleaning on those O2 sensors, at least. One is original, the other replaced around 1998 or so. Above I mentioned some coolant stuff. My operations are in progress. May be some air in the system from my overflow issue that I swapped with a new part. Fill and drain on rad and block coming up, and will do the ALT t-stat for 160 when I drain it. Rad cap was bad too. Anyway .... my mission continues. Thanks for the input.
    PS - has original cat at 193k miles. Might be time for a change on that. Would probably smell better. Gonna do a coolant check for hydrocarbons too (part of the overheat could be a head leak, but not really seeing any other signs of that issue). But if it has one I need to know before I spend much more on it.
    Dylan
     
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