Need help with 67 RS Headlight Door

Discussion in '1st Gen Camaro (1967-1969 Camaro)' started by Milan, Jul 24, 2016.

  1. Milan

    You are absolutely right. Thanks
     
  2. fish4xx4

    Hi Guys, I know his is an older thread but I am having a similar issue and wondering what ended up solving the bouncing headlight door on Milan's RS.

    This car had been in storage for about ten years. Before being parked all worked as it should. When I got it out of storage the headlights would turn on but I had to manually open the doors. Once movement was initiated they would move on their own until open and stop correctly. Then when you turn them off they would close correctly. I figured switches were bad, so I installed all new limit switches and now I have new problems.

    Doors open on their own but bounce when open until the high beams are turned on. Once high beams are turned on the bounce stops but then the doors won't close on their own. Also the drivers side headlight is very dim. Replaced both bulbs with new, replaced the dimmer switch with new delco one. Replaced the passenger side motor as it seized during all the troubleshooting. I've replaced the relay board a whole with new circuit breaker too. Really struggling with it. I found the wiring diagram on retro-electric and checked all colors are where they are supposed to be, as well as the pdf on americanautowire.com.

    The bounce will stop when I push the doors into the limit switchs on teh raditor suport and hold them there. I tried adding some 1/4oz wheel weights to extend the contact area for the open switch and that didn't help either. I am getting an aubile click from both doors when they open and you can hear them clicking when the doors are bouncing.

    Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to get as much info out there as possible. I have been working on these things chasing voltage and grounds for a couple of weeks and haven't made any progress.
     
  3. Ryatt-Motion Staff Alumni

    It sounds like you have a bad ground. Check all your grounds and grind away paint or powder coat if any is present and re check if that solves the problem.
     
  4. NastyZ

    At first ....i would have suspected your motor(s) which one later siezed , because you could force them to start operating. .. Then you replaced the limit switches. If possible i would test them switches. Check the switch both circuits... see the voltages.....nice smooth continuity. Never now somtimes components are bad even when brand new. Or possibly the switch requires too much throw to actuate. Also compare old switches wireing...... sometimes the colours could have been mismatched.


    Just shots in the dark really
     
  5. fish4xx4

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    Thank you for the help guys!

    I rechecked the main ground to the relay board and found a fraying wire. I soldered a new wire into the terminal and most of all the issues have been fixed. The drivers side headlight is back to full bright and doors are working way better. The drivers side door opens and stops as it is supposed to, but the passenger side door opens and slowly bounces, maybe one bounce every two or three seconds. I checked the color orientations on the switches and all were correct per aftermarket switch diagram. I tried flipping the firewall switch on the passenger side and it caused all kinds of havoc, so I put it back.

    The interesting part is, when the headlights are on low beam the passenger side does the slow bounce, when high beams are kicked on the bounce stops. when it flips back to low beam, the bounce restarts again. Do I need to add an accessory ground to the motor somewhere? I checked and all four limit switches have good grounds.... Does the passenger side headlight need an accessory ground?
     
    NastyZ likes this.
  6. Ryatt-Motion Staff Alumni

    I had the same issue with my car that you are now having, only difference was, my high beams were not so bright. The instrument cluster relies on getting its ground from that wire that is attached to the high beam light, making good contact with the body of the dash when tightened down.

    I went one step further and used gold plated terminals, and good 10g wire and made a new ground that attached to the metal portion of the instrument cluster, and then attached to the upper dash, and scraped all the paint away so it had a good contact. My issues are now gone. Hope that helps.
     
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